July 06, 2009

Rome - It's Not My Italy

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You may remember that my first trip to Rome was a bit of a debacle.  It wasn't exactly on my list of the Top 5, not even my Top 10 places to return to in Italy.

But, then a ridiculous airfare deal just dropped in my lap...and I am not one to say no to anything related to Italy, easily.

So, we decided to give Rome another shot.

I was practically convinced that this trip to Rome would be so much better.

Why, you ask?  Well, several reasons. Let's touch on them quickly, shall we?

1.  We only visited Rome for 3 days the last time, which certainly wasn't enough.  Armed with seven whole days, and a promise not to visit any museums, or repeat anything from our last visit, we were confident we would have a slower pace to take it all in.

2.  In the months leading up to our trip, I had met some fabulous on-line friends who were going to be in Rome.  A few even live there.  Both expats and Romans alike.  One in particular promised me that she would show me her Rome.  How can you go wrong?

3.  We were not staying in the touristy city center.  This time we picked a cute Roman neighborhood. Surely that, plus my lists of must-eat trattorias, wine bars and cafes would go along way to keeping us happy.


So, with a whole week, no real plan, no museums, a camera, a fistful of Roman contacts, a positive attitude and an open mind, we headed for Rome.  To give her yet another chance.

But like last time, we don't get very far before problems arise.  A problem with the plane, reroutes us back to our gate.  We arrive in Rome four hours later than scheduled.  

Next we find that the trains which we planned to take into Rome are not running.  No explanations, no confirmed strike. Just a lot of shoulder shrugging and an eerie silence in the train station.

An hour later and 65€ poorer, we were finally dropped off by taxi in front of our Bed and Breakfast, on a brightly lit afternoon.  In 100 degree weather. In May.  When average temps are normally a pleasant 70 degrees. Our luck had placed us in Rome at the exact time that a heat wave decided to grace the city.

And did I mention that I don't do heat?  Which is why we didn't travel in say, July.

Which brings me to our accommodations.  Oh, there was air conditioning alright.  On a timer.  From 8pm to 8am.  Which incidentally is the coolest part of the day.

Oh, and then there was the fact that this was supposed to be a working vacation.

Brought the Blackberry and the laptop for just that purpose.  Except the blackberry wasn't working and neither the B&B owner, nor I could figure out how to connect to the free-wifi.

So this was our second attempt at a nice Roman welcome.  Yeah, right.  I think the Roman welcome wagon lost a few wheels and was skidding out of control, headed straight for the Roman ruins.

For the life of me, I can't figure out why when Rome knows full well that we had a hard time getting there the last time, she would make it so hard for us to return- even with our open minds and hopeful hearts. 

Rome was off to less than a stellar second start.  

The rest of the week proved to be scorchingly hot.  We scaled back on many of our fun-in-the-blinding- hot- sun daytime activities and sought shelter under the umbrella shaded tables where we enjoyed early lunches and followed them up with late afternoon siestas in our non-air conditioned room, sans clothes and sheets.

Most of the rest of the week was enjoyable and uneventful, except for the fact that on one of the last trains back from a get together with friends in Garbatella, I got off the Metro stop and, well, Chris didn't.

Oh and the time we took the bus, in the wrong direction, all the way out to the Termini station.   And the time I almost got strong armed by a Italian secret service agent guarding a door when I tried to snap a photo said door.

We did have a great time, wandering the smaller streets of Rome, exploring our Monti neighborhood, meeting up with friends, writers and fellow Italophiles, taking photo after photo, doing research for trip planning and experiencing some of the best pasta, wine, cappuccino and espresso that Rome had to offer.

But through it all, I felt like I was missing something.  I couldn't quiet put my finger on it. It really wasn't a tangible thing.  It was more like a feeling.

I never got that warm and fuzzy feeling I had when I spent time in other parts of Italy. Like in Venice, Tuscany or Florence.

Visiting those places made me want to live there.  I felt a connection.  But with Rome, even the second time around, not so much.

In Rome, I was missing that feeling.  That connection.  Rome is a big city- and I am not really a big city girl.  But I think it runs deeper than that because Paris is also a big city, but in Paris, I had the feeling.  

Unlike Paris, Rome is not a place where you simply stroll along the river, because the river is cloudy and there is really nothing charming about the quays.  There is no ivy dripping down the walls, there aren't any boats trolling tourists to and fro, no neon-signed bars on anchored barges with a sophisticated vibe.  

I think Rome is more of a gritty city. If Rome could talk it think it would say: 

"Take me as I am- I don't care if you like me or not.  I am not gonna change for you. Graffiti will stay where it is, I will not pretty myself up for anyone.  I have survived thousands of years, there is blood on these streets, you wouldn't believe what I have been through, I could tell some grizzly stories.  So, I have earned my right to be just as I am.  Take me or leave me, I don't care.  And if you don't like it...I'll kick your ass! You got something to say about it? "


And there is nothing right or wrong about that. It's just the way it is. 

So after sitting with all of this for a month or so after my return from Rome, I think I have learned several things that I'd like to share.

First, and most importantly, I am still in love with Italy, but Rome isn't really my bag baby. Rome, is not my Italy.

And I say that from the standpoint of someone searching to find a connection with an area in Italy that will make me happy and comfortable spending considerable amounts of time, and possibly living, in.

And in this case, Rome will not be my home.

Don't misunderstand me. Rome is a city not to be missed.  For its history, its architecture, its churches, its food, its people and its culture.  For visiting.

Will I visit Rome again? Absolutely.  Will I continue to recommend it to clients, plan trips, give restaurant suggestions?  Most definitely.

And though I won't be headed back on the next flight to Rome anytime soon (simply because there are so many places in Italy I have yet to explore {Calabria, Liguria, Cinque Terre, Umbria, Piedmonte} and need to find my Italy) there are still many layers of Rome that I need and would like to uncover at another time down the road.

Secondly, I also learned Rome is best explored in small doses, not for weeks at a time or years on end. Perhaps my love for Rome will grow years from now, when I can visit for just a few days at a time, as a weekend getaway perhaps.  Or while getting together with the native Romans and expat friends who call Rome home, sharing stories about their Italy.

For now, I will have to be content with helping others explore Rome through my eyes, now somewhat clouded.  

But, I still long for the day that I can appreciate Rome as an expat, while living in my Italy. Wherever my Italy happens to be. 

July 03, 2009

Travel Photo Friday : Florence

Welcome to another Travel Photo Friday!  Can you believe it is July already?  Where has the year been going?! 

Since we have been focusing on Rome for the better part of two months, I thought it might be nice to change it up a bit.

So, I chose one of my favorites from Florence, Italy.



Florence | The Arno

Now, keep in mind, this photo was a color image, but through the magic of Macbook iPhoto editing, I am able to give it a sepia tone, which if I do say so myself, makes the picture come alive.

The picture was taken from the Ponte Vecchio, which crosses the Arno River in Florence.

I love how the bridge acts as a perfect separation from the sky and the river.  I love the cloud patterns, the texture of the ripples on the water, the gorgeous lines and arches of the bridge and even the tiny shadows on the water created by the arches.

I could seriously stare at this one for hours.

And if you'd like to see more of my photos, is just so happens that Julie is featuring another of my Rome beauties on her blog today as well.

And in case you haven't noticed, my Travel Photo Friday well has run dry and I need your photos. That was the whole point afterall.

So, all you travelers out there- please send in your photos-the ones that tell a story, the ones the feature something spectacular, the ones that give you that special feeling when you look at it, along with a short description and you'll be featured here!  

Send them along to me at mymelange (at) yahoo (dot) com.  And join me for next months edition on August 7th.

And to all those celebrating, Happy July 4th!

July 02, 2009

Cacio e Pepe

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Cacio e Pepe is a delicious authentic pasta native to Rome.

And though is tastes sinfully complicated, it is seriously the easiest pasta to make.

But, as in most Italian recipes, the best quality ingredients that money can buy should be used.

The three ingredients:  pasta, pecorino romano cheese and lots of freshly-ground spicy black pepper.  Alright, maybe you need to add a little bit of butter and some pasta water- but still, so easy!

And though it is a classic Roman dish, it is no surprise that each time we ate, no, rather inhaled it, it was different.

Not really good or bad, but slightly different.  Some were creamier, some were cheesier, some had more pepper. And then there was the oh-my-God-my-mouth-is-on-fire kind of spicy.

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If you are headed to Rome- stop by your nearest trattoria.  It is part of an unwritten Italian law to have it on the menu.  And I dare you not to want to order it again before you leave!

In fact- I think I would tell you to leave any trattoria that didn't have it on the menu.  No self-respecting Roman trat would be caught dead sans Cacio e Pepe.

Have you ever had Cacio e Pepe?  What did you think?

June 30, 2009

Travel Tip Tuesday - More Ridiculous Airline Fees

Travel Tip Tuesday I while back, I had written about Rising Airline Fees

First it was charging for blankets, pillows and water.

Next came fees for checking a second bag.  Then some went a step further and charged a fee for checking any bag.  

And here we all sat wondering. Waiting for the other shoe to drop.  What would the next round of fees bring?!

Well, last week the wait was over.

And I am warning you.  You'd better sit down for this one.

US Airways and United will being charging a $5 fee- wait for it, wait for it- for actually paying another fee. 

That's right folks a fee on top of a fee!

And it is getting downright disgusting.  

Apparently if you pay your checked bag fee on-line when you book- you are receiving the "online discount" !? Oh, excuse me if don't jump for joy.

If you don't pay the fee online, you are penalized and charged five bucks at the airport.

United started charging the fee on June 10th, while US Airways will implement it on July 9th.

I mean c'mon.  What am I missing here?  Is it me or do the airlines think we are stupid? Am I the only one that feels like someone should just look you in the eye, remind you about the poor state of our economic affairs and simply ask me to pay five damned dollars more for my ticket.

I think I'd be more than happy to do it.  And the airline would benefit as well.  After all, think of all the money they will save on medical bills.  No more iirate, frustrated passengers slugging airline customer service personnel at the check-in counter with the very bags they are being overchanged to check. 

Savings should be in the millions!

And if you think that is the most shocking fee I have to tell you about, think again my friends.

Apparently, RyanAir, the discount European airline that already charges its customers for uh, checking in (5€ for on-line check in and 10€ for checking in at the airport) is exploring charging customers for using the lavatory.  A fee to pee. And for, pardon my French, barfing in a bag.

Let's think about that last one for a moment, shall we?  So, you are feeling sick on the flight.  You know it's coming. You press the call button, wait for the flight attendant to come, dig out your money to pay for your barf bag and wait for the flight attendant to return with it.

And by the time he/she does, instead of a barf bag- me thinks they should be charging me a clean-up fee. I'll save the coin and just use the seat pocket in front of me, thankyouverymuch.

I would never, ever, fly an airline that charged me for involuntarily carrying out bodily functions. Would you?

So, just as we did last time, we wait.  Wait to see what other stupid, dehumanizing fees the airlines can cram down our throats.

What do you think? Getting tired of these silly fees?  What ridiculous travel fees have you encountered or heard of lately?

Time to fly on over to My Bella Vita for Cherrye's Travel Tips.  And the best part- no additional fees to get there!

June 29, 2009

Are you a Journeywoman?

Journeywoman

Well, I sure hope you are.  I know I am!

Journeywomen is an unbelieveable resource for all those traveling gals out there.  It is the ultimate online site for women travelers.

Journeywomen offers advice on shopping, travel, packing, destinations, spas, restaurants, solo travel and so much more! You can sign up for the free newsletter, read the featured website of the week and browse through a veritable smorgasbord of travel related info.

The media has recognized Journeywomen over 300 times and the site receives over a million visitors a year!  Must be doin' something right.

And now, there is something else that Journeywomen has.  My contributions!

That's right, CEO and editor Evelyn Hannon, (@Journeywoman on Twitter) was kind enough to ask me to participate in a special feature on Italy travel for women.

About a dozen Italy experts (myself included) offered up some great tips on visiting Italy. Mine were centered around women traveling to Italy, alone.

So, if you haven't heard of Journeywoman yet, now is a great time to pop over and read Experts Share Tips About Italy With Journeywoman.

***


And if by chance you are arriving here for the first time from the Journeywoman site - let me give you a warm welcome!  Or should I say, Ciao? 

Grab some coffee, browse my travel tips, recipes and musings about Paris and Italy.  If you don't want to miss another post, you can subscribe through RSS or through email. Just scroll up to the top right hand sidebar and click on the RSS button, or enter your email addy and hit subscribe. 

It's that easy!  

You can also follow me on Twitter.  I am @MyMelange

And why not end with the question we started with? Tell me why you are a Journeywoman?  Why do you travel?


June 26, 2009

In Mourning

We are postponing Foodie French Friday because I am mourning the two great losses yesterday. Unfortunately, I just don't have the heart to wax poetic about French Food.

Sadly, Farrah Fawcett lost her battle with cancer yesterday.  She was a brave, dignified, talented and classy lady.  Right up until the end.

I know it was the teenage boys that were swooning over that famous red bathing suit poster tacked up on walls all over the country.  But, seriously, what teenage girl didn't want to be one of Charlie's Angels and strike that pose?

You shall be missed.

And then the blow of Michael Jackson. 

My God, you were a talent and a gift.  An über star. The King of Pop is what they called you. 

Thriller was the first album I ever owned.  Many memories were created with that cassette, blasting from my Panasonic Boom-box in my backyard by the pool in the summer of '83.  We mimicked your moonwalk, we grabbed our crotches.  We danced.  We sang.  We did the "kick".  You were cool.

I wore that poor cassette out.  I think it finally gave out, shredding from over use.

My personal favorite on the album. Beat it.

In junior-high, I roller skated on the weekends to Billy Jean, Don't Stop Till You Get Enough and PYT.  In high school, I did many a cheerleading routine to your songs.  

And Thriller introduced me to music video.  

I smile for the adorable, talented and charismatic 5 year old on stage, with his brightly colored outfits and obvious sparkle in his eye. He had the it-factor. That smile, those eyes, that voice.  

But I am sad for the impossible and violent childhood he must have had to endure. Sad for the man he never got to become as a result of being trapped in that same childhood.

All the freakish surgeries, all the allegations, all the strange behavior seems to point to a tormented man. 

But, tormented no longer.  Hopefully at peace.

Enjoy Neverland Michael.  You earned it.  You Rocked!

June 24, 2009

Rome From Sunset to Sundown

Here is a collection of my favorite shots of our most recent visit to Rome, taken from sunset to the dark of night.


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Care to share your favorite?

Oh, and speaking of favorite, you might remember my last Travel Photo Friday | Caption This post.  I needed a caption for my silly photo.  Well, I have picked a winner.

First, I must say how amazing it is that each person that looks at the picture sees something different. I love that about art.  Everyone has their interpretation.  Isn't that great?!

My favorite caption was "Statue of Libutty", posted by Vicki Floyd! 

Vicki, your little prize will be on its way.

Thanks to all of you who commented!  You really entertained me. Such witty readers I have!

June 23, 2009

Travel Tip Tuesday | My Top Five New Travel Sites

Travel Tip Tuesday Well, at least they are new to me.

Travel sites pop up on the Internet like spring daisies after a wet winter. I always keep my eye open for new favorites. Here's the short list of my Top Five New-To-Me Travel Sites.

1.  Do-Hop.  How can you not like a name that conjures up images of hopping from place to place- and having somebody routing you on? Do-hop is a lightening fast search engine for cheap airline tickets and flights.  It searches about 600 airlines around the world.  A search for hotels and even a travel guide section are bonuses.

2.  Ruba Travel.  A picture is really worth a thousand words.  And if you're like me, you can often see pictures of a place and think "Man, I have to go there".  Well, Ruba is your site!  Ruba is a collection of photo travel guides, put together by real travelers.  And some of these photos are stunners! The best part?  Each photo is linked to a Google map, so you can see exactly where it is.  Why not sign up and make your own Ruba guide?

3.  SimonSeeks.com.  They bill themselves as the "You Tube of Travel."  It's a travel guide site written by travelers, celebrities and journalists.  They submit quality stories and users rate them-the higher up the chain, the more the writer gets paid. Writers categorize their stories to make it easy for the reader to find what they are looking for.  You could enter "Churches in Rome" rather than just Rome to read what your interested in.  You can filter your results further by budget.  The site partners with many big name travel sites- so you can even book right from the site!

4.  Oyster Hotel Reviews.  This new site strives to compete with the big boys like Frommers, Fodors and TripAdvisor. A team of full-time journalists, take scads of pictures, sleep in the beds, talk to other guests staying there and then report back.  Instead of tiny snippets of info, you get more like a magazine length feature.  And each hotel reviewed has a small overview with a gorgeous photo and a short pro and con list. The best part- it's all impartial.  Reporters pay for their rooms!  And no red carpet treatment- hotel managment doesn't even know they are coming.

5.  Bing. It's a Microsoft product.  But let's overlook that unfortunate fact and give them a chance. Bing is calling itself a decision search engine (huh?).  It offers airfare and hotel reservation tools, but also brings in the addition of travel news and info.  It looks (and feels) an awful lot like Kayak and Farecast, but some have reported that Bing has returned lower fares than the others.  It's worth playing around with it- especially if it saves you some cash in the end.

Have you tried any of these new sites?  Share you thoughts!  Or tell us about a new travel site that I haven't mentioned.

---

And Do-hop on over to My Bella Vita for Cherrye's Travel Tips!

June 22, 2009

Behind Those Italian Doorways

Call them loggias, call them porticos or call them courtyards.  Call them what you will. But hiding behind doorways of giant magnitude is sometimes a world unto its own.


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By now, you should know that I have a fetish for doors.  I have waxed poetic about them before.  And I will soon do so again with my most recent Italian door pictures.

But sometimes, it is what is behind the doors that make my heart go aflutter.

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I love walking along and seeing into these private little areas.

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Sometimes, an automatic garage door opens and before your very eyes, you can see a car backing out and for a hot second, you get a sneak peek into a decorated courtyard.

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I am always a sucker for decorative wrought iron gates and ornate dangling light fixtures.

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How 'bout a closer look ?


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The more ornate the better.  I just love the pretty leaves on this gate.  Simply stunning.

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Columns, peeling paint and arches also go along way with me.

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It feels a little sneaky, getting such an up close and personal look, especially when you aren't sure who is going to come out.

Other times, the doors remain wide open - almost as a welcoming gesture.  

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And though some interiors seem simple and bland..

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It is what is peering out of the tiny notched opening that draws the eye in closer and makes you wish you could run up and touch it!

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But perhaps my favorite is one that I could see myself coming home to everyday.

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I think perhaps it is because of the dark and mysterious shadow of the motorcycle rider.  

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Or it could be the perfect combination of all the things I adore.  The arches, columns, peeling paint, rows of lights and tons of wrought iron.  And both natural and artificial light.

Which one could you see yourself coming home to every day?

June 19, 2009

Foodie French Friday: Crêpes

Crepe Hope you're hungry, 'cuz it is time again for another Foodie French Friday.  

This week were are talking crêpes.

Acoording to The Short Guide to Foodie French, Crêpe pronounced [krep] is " a very thin pancake, briefly fried on both sides on a very hot and large griddle.  Crêpes are often sprinkled with sugar or stuffed with a variety of sweet pastes or jams."

The French do have a favorite topping : Nutella, a popluar hazelnut spread (maple syrup has not seemed to reach France in any great quantity).

A specialty of the Brittany region, the salty version of the crêpe made using buckwheat flour bears the name galette.  

In France, national crêpe-day is February 2, a celebration called Chandeleur.  

Seriously, you gotta love a country that not only invented the crêpe, but dedicates an entire day to celebrating them!  Add to that the fact that the French love to add Nutella as a fiiiling and I dare any one of you to fault me for being a staunch Francophile.  Actually, I double dare ya!

I have made both sweet and savory crêpes.  My favorite sweet fillings are, Nutella and strawberry, Nutella and banana (are you begining to see a pattern here?) butter 'n sugar and even Crêpe Suzette, which are filled with two of my all time favorites-oranges and booze.  Yep. Grand Marnier. 

Oh. My. God.

And my savory favs?  Well, those include cheese, any and every kind, but I am especially fond of Gruyère. The gooier, the better. And to the oozing cheese, I like to add ham, onions, spinach and/or mushrooms in any combination.

I have a standard go-to crêpe recipe that I use to make them at home.  But while in France, and Paris specifically, I love to grab both sweet and savory from street vendors and stroll the cobbeled streets near the Seine, eating my French street-food. Sure as hell beats the view from my kitchen window!

And though I do enjoy making crêpes at home, I simply adore stumbling onto them when eating out. I have found really great crêpes in my neck of the woods in both Newburgh and Hudson, but also in Montreal. (No huge surprise, since Montreal is French-Canadian!)

But without a doubt, the most authentic and delicious crêpes are best enjoyed in the country that both invented and honors them with a national holiday.  

Crêpes. France just wouldn't be France without 'em.


How 'bout you?  Do you like crêpes?  Where have you had them? What's your favorite filling?

June 17, 2009

Campo dei Fiori

I love me a good food market.  The food markets of Europe can't really compare to anything where I live. Sure, we have farmers markets in the summer here, but not on the scale that Italy and France do.  I have fond memories of the Marche d'Aligre in Paris.  And who could forget the Jean-Talon Market in Montreal?

Campo dei Fiori in Rome is yet another one not to be missed. 

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First, there is the location.  Beautiful square.  Surrounded by caffés and trattorias.  Right in the heart of Rome.  And a lovely statue presiding over the market.

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Flowers at the first booth as you round the corner are spread out like natures rainbow.

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And the food.  Oh the food.  This is Italian foodie heaven.

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Zucchini blossoms as big as wisk-brooms, perfect for frying.

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Ruby-red ciliege, cherries just waiting to become a crostata.

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Carciofini, little artichokes, so purple they look bruised. 

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Piselli, peas, from the Lazio region.  I love how they tell you that on the sign.
 
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Willow laundry baskets full of fresh salad greens.  The peppery arugula, rucola in Italian, perfumed the whole area.

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And speaking of perfume- the herbs were incredible!  Basil so fragrant I could just taste the pesto!


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Sun-dried tomatoes.  From Tunisia.  Everything here looks bigger, fresher.

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Even the lemons looked like little footballs.  I could see some serious limoncello in their future!

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I even saw things I have never seen before.  Check out these fagioli, beans. I have a scarf that color.

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Or this agretti, which looks like an herb, but is more of a vegetable.  Looks kinda like chives, though since I haven't had the pleasure of sampling it, I couldn't begin to tell you what it tastes like.

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And there isn't just fruit and veggies here. No, no- there is a little bit of everything.  Every spice known to man.

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Porcini. Ohhhh Porcini.  How I love thee.

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Plenty of balsamic vinegars to sample.

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And I think you'd be able to spot the fresh fish booth, from almost anywhere in the market, don't you?

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What's your favorite market- Italian or otherwise?  What is the strangest thing you have ever seen or bought at the market?

June 16, 2009

Travel Tip Tuesday | What's the 3-1-1?

Travel Tip Tuesday Unless you have been living under a rock for the past few years, you know that if you are going to travel with only a carry-on bag, you're restricted on the amount of liquids you can take with you.

Well, since I consider myself the Queen of the Carry-On Bag, I thought I'd help show you how easy it is pack those liquids accordingly.

People tell me that I am crazy. Can't believe that I can travel for 10 days, even 2 weeks, following these strict guidelines.  But I am here to tell you that regardless of my mental state (the jury's still out folks) with a little prior planning and some helpful tips- you can do it too!

The 3-1-1 rules basically state that ALL liquids in your carry-on bag must be in three ounce (or smaller) see-through containers in a single, clear, quart-sized ziploc bag. Sounds like no easy feat, but trust me-it can be done!

Wanna know how?  Let's get started then, shall we?

1.  The first thing I'll tell you not to do it purchase one of those silly ubiquitous kits with nothing more than four, 3oz bottles in a plastic case.  There is no way I'd be able to survive with only FOUR containers. Skip this kit and build your own using a regular quart-sized ziploc bag.

2.  Figure out what liquids might qualify for a medical exception.  If you have any kind of liquid medication or even contact lens solution that you can get a doctor's note or perscription to prove a medical necessity for, they can be brought in larger quanities and are not required to be in your one quart bag.  However, you must declare them to the security personnel before your luggage gets scanned.

3.  Replace popluar liquids with non-liquids. Be creative here. There are many products that you can eliminate. Hu-lo ladies - I am talking to you! One example is perfume.  They make perfume solids now that would not need to be part of your one quart bag.  Many companies know this and are jumping on the travel-friendly bandwagon.  You can refer to my other post for more ideas on how to ditch liquids from your Carry-On.

4.  Get the most out of the liquids that you do use by bringing products that can do double-duty.  I love multi-tasking products!  Hair condidtioner can also double as shaving cream.  You can more ideas in my Doing Double-Duty post.

5.  Share the load.  This works especially well if your travel companion happens to be of the male persuasion.  Think about it.  Men tend to need less liquids than women do, especially mine who happens to be folliculely-challenged, ie no shampoo, conditioner or hair gel needed!  If there are a few things you can't fit in your quart-sized bag, ask your travel partner if they can fit a few things in theirs.

6.  Ask yourself if you really need it?  C'mon - do you really need shower gel?  Can't you live with bar soap (a solid, and therfore isn't subject to the 3-1-1 restriction) for just a week?  Do you really need three different shades of lip gloss?  Pick the most neutral color that goes with everything and just deal with it! Paring down is the only way you are gonna make this work!

7.  Don't always use the whole 3 ounces. It is doubtful that you will need 3 ounces of hair gel or moisturizer for a week-long getaway. You may need only 1ounce, maybe even less.  Take much smaller quantities of your liquids and that way you can fit more products in your bag.

8.  Save samples and travel-sized products.  Not only can you use the products to take with you, but those really tiny containers come in handy for future 3-1-1 packing.  These are what I use in my quart-sized bag. As long as they are clear, they fit the bill.  An added bonus - it's good for the environment to recycle those containers!

9.  Just buy it there.  Rather than trying to jam something into your quart-sized bag, liquids that you'll need large quantities of are best left to be purchased at your destination. Sunscreen for a beach vacation is a perfect example. If there will be a few people sharing and it will be used often -it makes good sense to wait.  And so what if you have some leftover at the end of your trip?  Pay-it-forward. Leave it for the next traveler who may not have packed theirs either.

Do you have any helpful tips on packing your liquids to meet the 3-1-1 requirements?  Share them in the comments.

---

Don't forget to hop on over to see what tips Cherrye has today!

June 15, 2009

On Roman Ruins

One of the biggest reasons visitors flock to Rome year after year is to bare witness to all the ancient ruins. The slices of crumbling pieces left behind from life thousands of years ago.

And I am no exception.  It is one of the things I love best about Rome.  

I'd like to share some of my recent favorites with you.

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I love how like some Roman monuments, pieces of ruins just seem to pop up in the most unexpected places.


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You never know what just might pop up around a corner in Rome.

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Even beautiful poppies, seem to pop up around the loose ruins in the Fori Imperiali. Offering new life among the old.

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I am always just amazed at how these structures, with the most intricate details have stood the test of time.  They are weathered, but yet still standing.  Still beautiful.  Somehow, the worn away layers and cracks that appear over time make them more interesting. Visually appealing.  Worthy.

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It is somehow surreal to walk down a street, pick out a old stone sign in Latin and calculate its age from the Roman numerals.  And I stand in awe with my jaw slacking every time.  

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Even the layers of something as simple as an old wall show through, and though not a famous ruin, you realize just how many layers there are to the ancient city, full of history.

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Ancient columns in the Fori Imperiali peek through when strolling the tiny streets of Monti.

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And the ground below is littered with pieces, both large and small,  of the ancient city.


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To stand there and wonder what each piece was, wonder who touched it, what stories each piece could tell if it talked.  

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That is the magic, the beauty of Rome and all its ruins.

June 11, 2009

Pizza al Taglio

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Pizza al Taglio is Rome's version of fast food.  In Paris, you often see locals walking around with a baguette under their arm, ripping off chunks and munching as they walk around the city.  Pizza al Taglio is Rome's equivalent of The Paris Baguette.

Breakfast, lunch or snack- it's perfect anytime of day.

When you walk into your local forno, you'll see a rainbow of different options splayed out on the counter. Believe me, you'll have a hard time narrowing down your selection.

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Just point to which pizza you want and then the spatula-wielding counterperson will place the spautla on the pie as if to say "Do you want a slice THIS big?"  And you go from there.  "A little bigger, a little smaller" until you have the size you want.

They chop it off the pie, weigh it, cut it in half, fold it so that the toppings are kissing, making a pizza sandwich.  They wrap it in paper...and off you go.

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Unless of course, you decide to dine in.  Then your pizza comes served on a cute little pizza cutting board.

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Slices are dirt cheap and downright delicious.  It is THE easiest way for a budget traveler to survive in Rome!  The average price was between 2-3€ a slice. 

My hands down favorite (though I wouldn't turn any of them away) was the potato and rosemary.  It was sinful.  I would eat my weight in this stuff- and that's no easy feat!

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We also sampled the Zucchini Blossom and Anchovy, Sausage and Spinach, Porcini mushroom and the famed Pizza Bianca, which is basically just the most delicious focaccia-like bread simply dressed with salt and olive oil.

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Here are our favorite Pizza al Taglio joints.

In our Monti neighborhood:

Forno
Via dei Serpenti, 7

Pizzeria Leonina
Via Leonina, 84

And if you happen to be out and about in the Campo Dei Fiori area try these gems for Pizza Bianca:

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  Forno Campo dei Fiori
  Campo dei Fiori, 22

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  Antico Forno Roscioli
  Via dei Giubbonari, 21


Have you had Pizza al Taglio before?  How about Pizza Bianca?  What's your fav?

June 09, 2009

Travel Tip Tuesday - Tips for Speeding through Airport Security

Travel Tip Tuesday We all know how time consuming and stressful it is trying to get through airport security.  Impatient people pushing from behind you, trying to leaf through your stuff, trying to figure out what to put on the belt and what to leave on your person? Trying to keep your eye on your valuables so nobody steals them.

You feel somehow violated by the time you get to the other side!

Here are a few tips to help you sail through security!

1.  Dress the part.  Only wear slip-on shoes that can be removed and put back on quickly and easily. Leave the lace ups home.  Leave the jewlery and belts and any other accessories with metal home. It's no fun forgetting to take your metal bracelet off, only to set off the detector, hold up the line and get dirty looks from the crowd.

2.  All hands on deck.  You could use three hands for security-that is how busy you'll be.  Finish all drinks before you arrive at the security line and toss out your empty bottles.  This way you'll be ready to hold your passport/boarding pass in one hand- and fish out your items from your bag and onto the belt with the other.

3.  Unlock your luggage before you get on line.  Make it easy for the security team in case they need to inspect the contents of your luggage. The longer they struggle with your lock, the better chance you'll lose it because they'll cut it!

4.  Pack liquids in an accessable spot, not at the bottom of your luggage.  If you are going all carry-on, you need to place your zip-lock bag of liquids in a bin and place it on the conveyor belt.  Pick a spot close to the top of your carry-on, that is easy to access.  My wheelie has a separate zippered compartment on the outside which is a perfect spot for my zip-lock bag.

5. Laptops need to be taken out of a regular carry-on bag for inspection-but who has extra hands for fumbling around and opening it for the nice TSA folks? Instead, put your laptop in a TSA approved bag or neoprene sleeve and again, keep it easily accessible within your main bag.  Just place it in one of the bins on the conveyor and the laptop will sail through without issue.

6.  Try not to overload your pockets.  The less you have in them, the less time it will take to dig things out and empty them.  You may have a cell phone and some change.  Anything more or larger could be stashed in your carry-on bag until you get through the line.

7.  If you're going all carry-on and your airline offers early on-line check in, by all means take advantage of it!  In the long run, this will mean ONLY waiting on one line- airport security.  You'll be in a better frame of mind and come with a boatload of patience, which will certainly come in handy.  

8.  It is no time for jokes.  Don't utter the word BOMB or TERRORIST or anything similar to that.  It is the easiest way to get sidelined, singled-out, delayed and possibly deterred.  And don't show your annoyance or disdain for the process or the TSA employees.  Take deep breaths, be calm and just do what is asked of you.

9.  You know the old saying, practice makes perfect?  Well, in this case- it is so true.  Come up with a *plan* of how you forsee the security exchange unfolding.  Know what you'll do first, second, third etc. Keep rehearsing it in your mind and be very determined and focused once it is your turn.  You'll be prepared-which will make all the difference!


What say you?  What are your favorite tips for speeding through airport security?

***

Hop on over the My Bella Vita to see what tips Cherrye's got today!

June 08, 2009

Italy : Instructions for Use

Italy: Instructions for Use I had found Nan McElroy's site Living Venice, a few years back while searching for other blogs about Italy. Nan lives in Venice, a favorite city of mine, and captures it beautifully in her blog. We had occassionally conversed through our blogs.

Recently, we had found each other on Twitter as well and Nan knew that I was headed to Rome and she had a bit of a proposition for me.

Nan wrote a wonderful book about Italy called - Italy : Instructions for Use.  Not the typical guide book.  No pictures, no maps, no hotel recommendations, no museum hours.  No, this book is different.  Different in the best sense of the word. 

This little gem is a guide to Italy itself.  Her customs, language, food, transportation and more.  It's exactly what it says. Instructions on how to use...Italy.

Nan kindly asked me if I would read the book, bring it along on my trip to Rome and test it.  

Of course, I agreed.  Who wouldn't?

This book is both great for the first-time newbie going to Italy, as well as the seasoned, experienced traveler. There is always something new to learn about Italy.

I really, really love this little book. 

The book is split up into color-coded sections dealing with:

  • In-depth considerations when planning and preparing 
  • Easy-to-understand language pronunciation guide 
  • Eating, drinking, ordering, tipping 
  • Driving (with color road sign illustrations) 
  • Phoning (local, international and cell calls) 
  • Understanding Italian train systems
  • Shopping, shipping, and getting your VAT refund 
  • Vocabulary in context, Italian to English, and vice-versa 
  • Tourist information resources

The book is so portable, weighing in at only a few ounces and measuring in at about the size of a large index card, you could also slip it in a pocket. THIS is the guidebook you don't mind packing in your luggage and bringing along in your travel bag everyday. 

The vocabulary and pronounciation information is spot on and concise- no info on how to conjugate a verb.  I love how the accented text in a word is bolded, so that you immediately know which syllable the accent falls on, helping you to pronounce the word, easily. Included are helpful phrases like how to order tap water and carafes of house wine. 

The in-depth chapters on car rental, driving and taking the train are especially helpful.  She provides actual pictures of road signs and what they mean, self-service ticket kiosks and train schedules.

And the chapters on Shipping, the Post Office and VAT taxes are so informative and helpful.  This was all new to me, as I haven't really purchased things to send back to the U.S.  But, for those looking for those wonderful handmade Italian ceramic dishes, bowls and biscotti jars, this info will prove to be worth it's weight in gold!

Perhaps my favorite tips are the ones interspersed between paragraphs called Worth Noting and Attenzione.  Helpful tidbits like how to dial the + sign on a cell phone when calling in Italy, the fact that that there is no consistant odd or even numbering for addresses on either side of the street like in the US, and how to adjust your seat on a Eurostar train are offered.  I can tell you that the first two helped me immensely on my recent trip to Rome.

I especially love this piece of advice- Remember, Italy is a country-not a theme park! 

The book is very visually appealing as well.  Each chapter has beautiful illustrations, meaningful quotes or cute expressions that has Italy just dripping off the pages. 

I recently had a friend of mine who used to be a travel agent read it for her upcoming family vacation to Italy.  Though she had purchased several guidebooks for the vacation, she thought this one was the most helpful, portable and ridiculously affordable at $10.  She is buying her own copy to take on the trip!

So for those headed to Italy, those that have already been, or those who just want to learn more about the Bel Paese, run right out and buy this book. I can't recommend it highly enough.  It'll be the best $10 you've spent on a guidebook, guaranteed!
 
And in case you are interested, I have added Italy: Instuctions for Use, to my Amazon Store.  You can purchase it there.

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