My Mélange

Cacio e Pepe

Cacio e Pepe is a delicious authentic pasta native to Rome.

And though is tastes sinfully complicated, it is seriously the easiest pasta to make.

But, as in most Italian recipes, the best quality ingredients that money can buy should be used.

The three ingredients:  pasta, pecorino romano cheese and lots of freshly-ground spicy black pepper.  Alright, maybe you need to add a little bit of butter and some pasta water- but still, so easy!

And though it is a classic Roman dish, it is no surprise that each time we ate, no, rather inhaled it, it was different.

Not really good or bad, but slightly different.  Some were creamier, some were cheesier, some had more pepper. And then there was the oh-my-God-my-mouth-is-on-fire kind of spicy.

If you are headed to Rome- stop by your nearest trattoria.  It is part of an unwritten Italian law to have it on the menu.  And I dare you not to want to order it again before you leave!

In fact- I think I would tell you to leave any trattoria that didn't have it on the menu.  No self-respecting Roman trat would be caught dead sans Cacio e Pepe.

Have you ever had Cacio e Pepe?  What did you think?

Pizza al Taglio

Pizza al Taglio is Rome's version of fast food.  In Paris, you often see locals walking around with a baguette under their arm, ripping off chunks and munching as they walk around the city.  Pizza al Taglio is Rome's equivalent of The Paris Baguette.

Breakfast, lunch or snack- it's perfect anytime of day.

When you walk into your local forno, you'll see a rainbow of different options splayed out on the counter. Believe me, you'll have a hard time narrowing down your selection.

Just point to which pizza you want and then the spatula-wielding counterperson will place the spautla on the pie as if to say "Do you want a slice THIS big?"  And you go from there.  "A little bigger, a little smaller" until you have the size you want.

They chop it off the pie, weigh it, cut it in half, fold it so that the toppings are kissing, making a pizza sandwich.  They wrap it in paper...and off you go.

Unless of course, you decide to dine in.  Then your pizza comes served on a cute little pizza cutting board.

Slices are dirt cheap and downright delicious.  It is THE easiest way for a budget traveler to survive in Rome!  The average price was between 2-3€ a slice. 

My hands down favorite (though I wouldn't turn any of them away) was the potato and rosemary.  It was sinful.  I would eat my weight in this stuff- and that's no easy feat!

We also sampled the Zucchini Blossom and Anchovy, Sausage and Spinach, Porcini mushroom and the famed Pizza Bianca, which is basically just the most delicious focaccia-like bread simply dressed with salt and olive oil.

Here are our favorite Pizza al Taglio joints.

In our Monti neighborhood:

Forno

Via dei Serpenti, 7

Pizzeria Leonina

Via Leonina, 84

And if you happen to be out and about in the Campo Dei Fiori area try these gems for Pizza Bianca:

  Forno Campo dei Fiori

  Campo dei Fiori, 22

  Antico Forno Roscioli

  Via dei Giubbonari, 21

Have you had Pizza al Taglio before?  How about Pizza Bianca?  What's your fav?

Osso Buco

I have never tried Osso Buco.  I rarely eat veal.  Not that I don't like the taste of veal, I guess I just consciously decided that I didn't want to eat a baby calf.

But Osso Buco has always intrigued me.

Last week, I happened to be shopping in the meat section of my market and I saw it.  Just one veal shank. All wrapped up, with my name on it.  It was calling me.  As I moved closer, I saw the label.

FOR OSSO BUCO.

It was fate.

Now, I had to find a recipe.

Where else would I do that?  The Internets.

First, I found one from Giada Delaurentiis.

Then, I turned to Twitter.  Deb from Italian Food Forever sent me this link.

And I must admit- at first, I could have cared less which one I made- but in the end it was Deb's picture that pushed me over the edge.

And so I used her recipe as a base for my own.  

I always estimate, especially when it comes to meat because I am only cooking for one - and nobody writes recipes for just one serving.

Osso Buco

veal shank

flour

salt & pepper

butter

olive oil

fInely chopped onion, celery and carrot

clove of minced garlic

dry white wine

beef stock

chopped tomatoes

Gremolata:

zest of one lemon 

finely minced galric clove

handful of fresh parsley

***

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Dust each shank with flour, salt and pepper. 

In a dutch oven, melt a mixture of butter and oil, and brown the shanks well on both sides. Remove to a separate plate and pour off any fat. 

Add a smidge more butter, and the vegetables. Saute the vegetables until tender. Add a generous splash of wine, scrape up any brown bits on the bottom, add some beef stock, bring to a boil and reduce. 

Add some tomatoes and mix well. Return the shanks to the pan, cover and place in the oven for at least 2 1/2 hours. 

Serve each shank with some sauce over top and a dusting of the gremolata topping.  Add a chilled glass of the wine used in the dish for a perfect meal!

I have to tell you, this was sooooo good, I was literally making noises when I ate it.  It was that good!

Though it was my first time for Osso Buco, it surely won't be my last!

How 'bout you? Have you ever had Osso Buco?  Is it one of your favs?

Mangia Mangia!

In the Italian language, mangia is a command that means eat.  Mothers tell their son's mangia, wives tell their husbands mangia and servers in trattorie tell their guests mangia,mangia!

So, who am I to disobey?  No, not this Italophile.

Some of the most delicious Roman dishes that I can't wait to scarf down are:

Pasta Carbonara.  This is my all-time favorite pasta dish! Raw eggs are tossed with hot pasta (which cooks the eggs), parmesean cheese and lots of browned pancetta.  Heaven on a plate!  

Bucatini all'amatriciana. Thick, hollow pasta with tomatoes, guanciale (pork cheek) or pancetta (pork belly) and grated Pecorino Romano cheese.  Yum.

Cacio e Pepe. The simplest of them all- spaghetti, lots of black pepper, tons of that sharp grated Pecorino Romano cheese and a little of the pasta water create a delicious, creamy sauce. 

Pasta Arrabbiatta.  This is labeled *angry pasta* because of the addition of red hot chili peppers. (and no, not the band).  I'm normally not a huge fan of hot and spicy food, but when in Rome....

Gnocchi.  In Rome, the old tradition in real trattorie is to have a special plate for every day of the week. Thursdays happens to be gnocchi night.  You can bet we'll have some fluffy, delicious pasta pillows- with whatever sauce they are serving!

Fiori di zucca.  Fried zucchini flowers, stuffed or plain.  Crispy, salty, goodness.

Abbacchio Scottadito. Roasted Roman spring lamb chops that are grilled.  The name implies burnt fingers- because you'll burn your fingers in haste trying to claw your way at them.  Maybe, but rumor has these are finger licking good.

Porchetta. Sucking pig, stuffed with herbs and garlic and roasted on a spit.  Then it's sliced and slapped on a sandwich.  And it's sold out of a truck in Italy.  That is what I call fast-food!

Pizza Bianca.  Many a forna in Rome make this.  It's sold by the pound and gets wrapped in paper as you take it with you.  You might think it is white pizza- but it is really more like a foccacia dusted with salt, rosemary and olive oil.  There can be toppings likes potato and rosemary or zucchini blossoms.  This ain't pizza hut!

Roman pizza.  Romans cook their pizza in a scorching hot oven, which means that the extra-thin Roman crust comes out extra crispy- even a bit scorched around the edges.  My favorite is the simple Margherita- tomato, basil and mozzarella.  Oh, I hope it's bufula mozzarella.

Supplì. A larger version on arancini.  Basically a ball of risotto rice, surrounding a hunk of mozzarella and held together with egg, tomato and breadcrumbs and then fried.  

Carciofi alla Romana.  Artichokes braised in olive oil and water, sometimes with garlic and mint- the traditional Roman style.

Carciofi alla Giudia.  The typical Jewish version of artichokes-flattened and fried.

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But, there are a few Roman delicacies that no amount of sweetly-spoken mangia's, could make me eat. They are:

Trippa. Tender tripe in creamy, spicy tomato sauce, served sprinkled with pecorino cheese.  Basically, intestines. I'll pass.

Pajata.  Chopped suclking calf intestines boiled with it's mother 's milk still inside and served with tomato sauce.  Oh, yum.  Teeny-tiny baby intestines.  No thanks!

Coda alla Vaccinara.  Ox tail in celery and tomato broth.  I'm sure it is delicious, but I'll stick to all the other edible parts of an ox, of which I am so sure there are many.

Now, I am sure that eating my way through Rome will be my activity of choice. Let's just hope that all the walking and the extra shots of espresso, speed up my metabolism enough to avoid me gaining 20 pounds!

What's your favorite on the list?  Would you try any of my off-limit dishes?

Italian Recipes to Wow Your Friends With

My good twitter buddy Julie Gilley and I have more than a few things in common.  We are both passionate about travel, we love Italy and we love Italian food!  We got to twittering about Italian Food a few weeks back and she mentioned that she had a delicious no-fail night of Italian recipes for entertaining- from soup to nuts.

I suggested she come on and let us know about it!

So, heeeeeeeeere's Julie:

One of the many things I love about Italian food is its rustic simplicity and goodness.  Many recipes can be made the day before, making them ideal for dinner parties.  The next time you want to dazzle your friends with a scrumptious meal, try these deceptively easy dishes:

Antipasti: Bruschette con Cannellini e Olio Nuovo 

(Bruschetta with White Beans and Olive Oil)

• 2 cans cannelloni beans
  
• 8 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
  
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
  
• 1 tbsp chopped sage
  
• Coarsely ground salt and pepper to taste
  
• 4 slices country bread
  

Mix beans, olive oil, garlic, sage, salt and pepper.  Warm the beans over low heat.  Toast bread slices on a baking sheet in 375°F oven until golden brown.  Ladle a generous amount of beans and a bit of the juice on each toast and serve.

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Primi:  Bucatini all’Amatriciana

(Spaghetti with Tomatoes, Pancetta, and Chili)

• ¼ lb pancetta, chopped
  
• 2 tbsp olive oil
  
• 1 yellow onion, chopped
  
• 2 cloves garlic, chopped
  
• Pinch of dried pepper flakes
  
• 2 cans chopped Roma tomatoes
  
• salt to taste
  
• 1 lb bucatini or spaghetti
  
• 1/3 c grated pecorino romano cheese
  

In a large saucepan, cook pancetta over medium heat in olive oil until golden brown.  Add onion, sauté until tender.  Add garlic and chili.  Add tomatoes and salt.  Bring to a simmer and cook until sauce thickens—about 15 minutes.  Meanwhile, boil pasta until al dente.  Drain pasta, reserving a ladleful of cooking water.  Pour pasta into the saucepan.  Stir and toss well.  Add cooking water as needed if pasta seems dry.  Sprinkle with the cheese and toss again.  Serve immediately.

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Secondi:  Coniglio con Olive e Pinoli

(Rabbit with Olives and Pine Nuts)

• 1 rabbit cut into 8 serving pieces **
  
• 6 tbsp olive oil
  
• 2 of each: onion, celery stalks, carrots, garlic cloves—all chopped
  
• 1 tsp each: rosemary, sage, Italian parsley—all finely chopped
  
• 2 bay leaves
  
• 1 c dry white wine
  
• 1 c pine nuts
  
• ¾ c brine-cured pitted black olives
  
• Salt and Pepper to taste 

  

In large frying pan over medium heat, warm olive oil.  Lay rabbit in single layer and cook until lightly brown on all sides.  Transfer meat to plate.  Add vegetables and herbs and cook until tender, about 10 minutes.  Reduce heat to medium-low, return rabbit to pan.  Add wine.  Cook, stirring, and adding a bit of water if the pan dries out until meat is done, about 1 hour.  Add ½ cup water, the pine nuts, and the olives.  Stir well.  Cook until rabbit has absorbed most of the liquid.  Season with salt and pepper.  Serve immediately

  
** If the idea of eating rabbit makes you squeamish, substitute it with dark meat chicken (thighs and legs).

Julie Gilley
Travel Guide and Planner

www.myfarandaway.com

www.juliegilley.typepad.com

Tour del Gelato : Amorino

Seems like a good time for another stop on the Tour del Gelato.

There is nothing in this world that can be as good as scarfing down some gelato in Italy.  A close second would be scarfing down creamy, authentic Italian gelato, right in the heart of my favorite French city, Paris!

I first found Amorino on my first solo trip to Paris in 2005, while wandering through the Latin Quarter.

I noticed the line zig-zagging out onto the cobbled streets.

But what really caught my eye was the chubby little cherub gracing the Amorino sign!

I have waxed poetic on my love for round, happy cherubs and putti.

Now, I ask you, what Italiaphile would pass up a cute, winged cherub and gelato?  None that I know of. It was as if cupid shot an arrow right though my heart and into my stomach.  I had to partake.  

Amorino was set up in the typical Italian fashion, complete with the huge array of colorful flavors,  a feast for the eyes on display in a glass case.

All the flavors are in Italian (which I am pleasantly surpised that the bureaucracy-laden country of France would even allow) and just like real gelateria in Italy, you can fit as many flavors into your cup or cone as you wish.

On my visit in 2007,  I was pleasantly surprised to find one near the Marais neighborhood, blocks from our hotel.

It was nice to see the same familiar cherub and classic gelato flavors, welcoming me in.  But really, it was even better to taste the delicious custard, while taking in the frenchness of Paris.

So, while it was my love of cherubs and their plump tummies that drew me in, it is my love for authenic Italian gelato and my full, plump tummy (after enjoying it), that will keep me coming back for more.

Amorino has grown by leaps and bounds and currently have over 12 locations in Paris, and many others scattered around France- too many for me to list here individually.  Please visit the Amorino website for a locations and hours.

Roman Eats - Then and Now

Our last visit to Rome was the quick cooks tour.  But the way I roll, I do my food homework, so I must admit, we ate at a few great places in such a short time.  Many worthy of a return visit.

It would be very uncharacteristic of me to just visit all the same places that we ate last time, especially since my favorite part of discovering new cultures, and just traveling in general, is to eat my way through a city.

There are a few special places we liked that we will be returning to, but many new places we will add to the list.

My Roman favorites that we will be returning to once more are:

Cul de Sac.  A Roman gem, tucked into a square off the Piazza Navona, called Piazza Pasquino, is a tiny enoteca. A spot outside is prime real estate, but inside you have a selection of wine and delicious food like none other.  This is the spot to come to taste top quality wines by the glass that you couldn't otherwise afford or find back home.  We loved it there and will go back every chance we get!

Caffe Sant'Eustachio.  Steps from the Pantheon, this caffe makes excellent coffee, but they take it very seriously.  Screens afixed to the coffee machines prevent stealing the ancient secret recipe and technique. I am really looking forward to scarfing down an espresso soaked granita topped with fresh whipped cream.  Yum!

Caffè della Pace.  One of my favorite, albiet pricey, Italian caffès is one with a distinct Parisian flare. Also steps from the Piazza Navona-the location is the reason to come here.  And you must sit outside! Tiny tables set atop cobblestones, surrounded by old architecture every imaginable shade of coral. Come here to be part of the Roman nitelife, to be and be seen like the locals and to bask in the glow of the beautiful Santa Maria della Pace in the background.  It's a magical, romantic setting few can replicate. This is la dolce vita.

And a few of the new places we will be exploring:

Ai Marmi.  They call it "the morgue" because of the marble slab tables, but make no mistake- this Pizzeria in Trastevere has excellent Roman Pizza made in a traditional wood-burning oven.  As a bonus, if you're walking around Trastevere, late at night- stop for a midnite snack- they are open late!

Obikà.  Rome's first mozzerella bar. That serves wine.  Two locations- take your pick.  Campo dei Fiori or Piazza di Firenze.  Yep, it's a chain, but if I can get a selection of creamy mozzarella and wine- at a good price- I'll make an exception!

 

da Felice.  A local joint, located in the Testacchio neighborhood, which is built on a mound of old italian ceramics, the service might be gruff, but the place has been serving the same Roman trattoria food for 40 years. And they toss the cacio e pepe tableside.

 

Antico Forno. For the best Pizza Bianco. Grab a slab by-the-pound and walk around the Campo dei Fiori market. Nuff said.

Armando al Pantheon. Smack dab in the Centro Storica (historic center), near the Pantheon, this place has been serving classic Roman dishes at decent prices since 1961.  Looking forward to trying the Abbacchio Scottadito, Ossobucco or the Roman artichokes, if they are still in season.  And if can stomach it, gulp, the serve tripe (pun intented)!

Of course, this isn't my entire list. A girl's gotta keep some secret places up her sleeve.  But this is a pretty darn good selection to start.

Next time we talk about Rome, we will cover Roman Sites- Then and Now.  I'll tell you what we did, what we'll do again and what new sights we'll be seeing this time.

But in the meantime, why don't you tell me about your Roman dining experiences?!  

Have you been anywhere on the list?  What would like to try in Rome?  Have you ever had a favorite place you disovered through travel that you return to again and again?

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Photo: Trattoria located in San Gimignano, Italy, taken by the author.

Sfogliatelle-Off

Italians are not quite as famous for their pastry as are the French.  My favorite pastry of all time is, of course, the croissant.  Nothing can compare to that buttery, flaky dough that the French have perfected and are so famous for.

But don't get me wrong, Italians do have a few noteworthy confections.  There is the cannoli, of course. Zeppole, aka fried dough.  And Sfogliatelle, which is typically enjoyed for breakfast.

Sfoglaitelle (sfo-l'yee-ah-tel-leh) means 'many leaves/layers' in Italian, which pretty much sums up what the outside looks like.  The clam-shaped pastry, has layer upon layer of crispy dough, and is filled with sweetened ricotta cheese containing candied citron, almond paste or orange flavor.  I really find them both beautiful and mezmerizing to look at.

Sfogliatelle originated in Naples, but can be found all over pasticerrie in Italy and of course here in the United States, especially in Italian-American areas.

It has been a lifetime since I have had some sfogliatelle, and last week, I was craving them.

My ah-ha moment was when I realized that I live within 5 mintues of two, count 'em two, Italian pastry shops. Duh.

So, I did what every self respecting Italiophile with a pastry craving would do.

Bought some at both shops and ate my way through them to find the best!

Yeah, such a hard life I have.

To my chagrin, I had to wait, as both shops only make sfogliatelle on the weekend.  I waited patiently, and here are the results:

Caffe Aurora

I have a soft spot for this place.  When we first started taking Italian lessons, on Friday evenings after class, we would stop here for a cappuccino nightcap and swap stories and Italian words with the neighborhood men gathered around the outside tables.  And in true Italian fashion, Caffe Aurora closes on a whim- they like to make their own hours. 

 

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I picked up my first batch of Sfogliatelle, early in the afternoon on Friday.  I bought both with and without powdered sugar.  I have no preference on that front.  These were thick, heavy and filled with lots of candied fruit.  They were pretty to look at, but very heavy handed on the fruit, which tasted very bitter. They were good, but not as good as I remembered in Italy.  The pastry itself was a bit stiff, not flaky. Each of these babies set me back $2.50

La Deliziosa

Early Saturday morning, Chris made the five minute trip over to La Deliziosa, while I made our coffee. When he returned, I knew it was going to be a good day.  He said "Uh, remind me why we don't go there every weekend?"

He said the place smelled like an Italian wonderland of baked goodness- almond, freshly baked cookies, slightly sweet.  He came home with two sfogliatelle, right out of the oven. At first glance, these looked larger and had much more of a golden color. 

 

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It was love at first bite.  They were crispier than the others and the filling was lighter and much tastier- not as much of that bitter fruit, which I prefer.  And the best part- they were only $2.00 a piece- a whole fifty-cents cheaper!

So, La Deliziosa wins, hands down!

Looks like Caffe Aurora holds the special place in our hearts- but La Deliziosa holds the sweet spot in our tummies.

Have you ever tried Sfogliatelle?  What did you think?  What is your favorite Italian pastry?

Stuffed Artichokes

I have never been a big fan of artichokes.  I will admit that they intrigue me, though.  They look cool and weird at the same time.  And they are quite a delicacy in Italy, especially Rome.

I have only had artichokes in their natural form once.  Years ago, at my first boyfriend's house for a family dinner.  I didn't know how to eat them and apparently I must have eaten some of the petals and pointy tips and (big surprise) I got sick later that night. 

I usually shy away from any food that casued me such awful pain.

Fast forward about 20 years, when we happen to catch Rocco DiSpirito making a delicious looking recipe for stuffed artichokes. I bookmarked that in a small corner of my mind.  

This past weekend, the artichokes at our market looked too good to pass up, so we decided that the timing was right.  I'd give artichokes another try.  And Chris was nice enough to make them for us.

Stuffed Artichokes

Ingredients:

½ cup breadcrumbs

½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

5 cloves garlic (2 cloves chopped, 3 cloves smashed)

3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano

2 tablespoons plus ¼ cup Bertolli ® extra-virgin olive oil

Juice and zest of 2 lemons

Salt and freshly ground pepper

4 fresh artichokes

1 sprig fresh thyme

1½ cups dry white wine

1 cup vegetable broth

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1. For the filling: In a medium bowl, combine breadcrumbs, cheese, chopped garlic, parsley, oregano, the 2 tablespoons olive oil, and lemon zest. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

2. Cut the stems off of the artichokes and pull off the tough outer leaves. Cut about ½ inch off of the top of each artichoke to create a flat top. Make sure the bottoms are flat so the artichokes can stand up. With your fingers, spread the leaves apart as much as you can, stuffing the breadcrumb mixture between them. Put plenty of the filling on the top of the artichokes.

3. In a Dutch oven, heat the remaining ¼ cup olive oil over medium heat. Add the smashed garlic cloves to the oil and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add thyme, wine, lemon juice, and vegetable broth. Arrange artichokes in pot, cover, and place over medium heat. Simmer until artichokes are tender throughout, about 30 minutes.

I must admit, they really looked delicious when they were done, and the broth smelled wonderful.  But, as I started peeling and sucking petal after petal, I just couldn't help but ask myself why anyone would do this?

Considering the amount of time that goes into cleaning, peeling and preparing the 'chokes and the time it took to make the recipe- it just isn't worth it in my opinion.

I don't like to work this hard for my food- especially when that food is almost, uh, non-existant?! There was hardly any meat on those petals!

So while I am glad I conquered my fear of artichokes, I have decided that we won't be making them again in this house.

We'll be saving our artichoke consumption for the talented chefs when we dine out, or for those lovely jars of hearts at the market.  

Do you make artichokes?  How do you like them?

Adopt Your Own Olive Tree

I must admit, this was not the original post that I had planned for today.

But when life hands you olives....you make olive oil!

One of my new blog buddies, Nanette, from The Gourmet Worrier, let me know of a way to adopt your own olive tree in Italy.

You may remember my little story about harvesting olives and how I wish to be a part of it.

So, it should come as no surpirse that I surrfed right over to the website to check it out!

Nudo is a great way to help olive farming, keeping a time-honored tradition of pruning, harvesting and milling olive trees by hand alive, all the while owning your own tree.  You can receive updates about your tree, you can visit it, and most importantly, you will receive the oil from your tree.

If you live nearby or plan a trip to Italy during the year, you can even visit your tree!

It's also a great way to support organic...keep it green!

Ownership is for 1 year and as part of your adoption, you get an adoption certificate and 2 shipments of glorious olive oil from your tree and trees surrounding yours in the same grove. All for only 65 GBP, which is about $94.  Not bad.  

Maybe you have friends that would like to share tree adoption with you-and share the wealth.   And how fun would be to invite your friends over for dinner and dress a salad with olive oil from your own olive tree?

That would make some delicious dinner conversation, don't you think?

So what do you think?  Are you in?  Would you like to adopt your very own Italian Olive Tree?