My Mélange

Travel Tip Tuesday: Best of Paris

This Travel Tip Tuesday, Cherrye and I decided to collaborate on one of our favorite cities, Paris.  There are so many things to love about the City of Light, so it is hard to know where to begin, so I felt it best to put together a Best of  List.  Now, some of you may disagree, but keep in mind, it is my best, not the best.

Best of Paris

Best Museum.   I have been to many, not all, but many.  So far, my favorite has been the Rodin. The building itself is exquisite, the wrought iron banister leading to the second floor is to-die-for, his works are amazing.  Though the mansion is large, the small rooms allow it to remain intimate.  His larger works, like The Thinker, are nestled among the gardens out back.  You can even grab a nosh in the cafe.



Best Patisserie.  Hands down, it is Ladurée.  Each location is decorated a little differently, but they all exude that French style.   The window displays are perfectly delicious, as well as the signature Ladurée pastel packaging.  But the thing that keeps me coming back are the macaroons.  Rose, violet, pistachio, lime and cafe are just a few of the inventive flavors.


Best Wine Bar.  Though I have a handful of favorites, the Taverne Henri IV, located between the Pont Neuf and the Place Dauphine, will always top my list.  The cozy atmosphere, the delicious homemade food that changes daily, and the wonderful selection of inexpensive wines make this a favorite of many locals and tourists alike.  The location and the amicable owners are the real reason it holds a special place in my heart.

Best Spot For Sunset.  Located at the tip of the I'le de la Cité is a small park, called Square du Vert-Galant.  A lovely, serene spot to grab a park bench and relax, or smooch, like the locals do.  Walk out a bit further at sunset though and enjoy the stunning array of jewel-toned colors light up the sky as the glow from the setting sun slowly transforms the bridges and buildings from cold grey to warm amber.

Best For a Stroll.  Far away from the crowds and the center of the city is an area made famous by the movie Amelie.  The Canal Saint-Martin,  in the 10th arrondissement, is lined with trees, bridges, and locks along the canal.  It makes for a lovely, quiet, picturesque and shady walk.  There are several new boutiques and cafes in the area worth a visit, including the Hotel du Nord.


Best Quintessential Paris. Day or night, the I'le Saint Louis, exudes charm.  With its tiny cobbled streets, romantic quays, boutiques, bridges and stunning views of both the right and left bank of Paris, it showcases a bit of everything Paris has to offer, all in the tiniest of spaces. And Berthillon, Paris's best ice cream, is located right in the center of it all!  

Best Neighborhood.  The Marais is a lively section on the right bank and a perfect spot to spend a whole day.  Wander the streets, pop in and out of the funky boutiques, spend some time on the Place des Vosges or one of the many museums located here.  Locals flock here on Sundays, as it is one of the only places where shops are open.  If you like Greenwich Village in NYC, than you will love the Marais!

Best Off the Beaten Path.  Wander away from the touristy Place du Tertre, behind Sacré Coeur, and you will find the backstreets of the Buttes Montmartre.  It's a neighborhood lined with gorgeous examples of Haussmann architecture, large apartment buildings complete with French windows and iron balustrades, tiny streets with little French houses, quaint parks and passageways, a cemetery and a small vineyard on Rue St. Vincent.  I love getting lost there. 

So many more, so little time.  So, tell me what is on your Best of Paris list?

Don't forget, Cherrye has her favorites for Paris too!  Make sure you check it out!

Armchair travels : Père Lachaise

 Photo:  Molière gravesite, Père Lachaise, taken during my visit to Paris in 2005

Now, I know some of you would love to visit Paris, but for whatever reason, you just haven't made it there.

Yet.

Whether it be budget constraints, fear of flying, or your other-half not being much of a traveler, or solo travel just isn't your thing, I understand.

In these cases, armchair travels are a perfect solution.  How about  a virtual visit to a special place in Paris?  

I share with you,a website for Père Lachaise.  A cemetery on the western edge of Paris.  Many famous people, including Jim Morrison, have this as their final resting place.  And what a lovely place to spend eternity!

You get a lovely panoramic view of the entrance, as well as many other spots within the cemetery itself.  If you really want your moneys worth, you can click on each gravesite for an up-close and personal visit, right from your comfy computer chair.

Edith Piaf, Rossini, Chopin and Heloise et Abelard are a few of my favs!

Click away my Paris lovers and please, tell me which is your favorite gravesite?

Notre Dame de Paris

Enjoy these pictures in and around Notre Dame in Paris.  Consider it your own personal armchair tour.

Though your guide, moi, is here in spirit - it will be more of a self-guided tour.

The front facade, taken from the square in front of Notre-Dame.

A close up of the center arch.

An even closer look at the side of the arch.  Just look at that detail!

Taken from the Quai d'Orléans across the Seine on the I'le Saint-Louis.

A view of the right side, taken from the Vedettes du Pont-Neuf, a boat ride on the Seine.  

A view from the rear, in the lovely Square Jean XXIII, with gardens, benches and a fountain.  There is even a Wi-Fi hot spot back here.  Who wouldn't want to tickle their laptop keys back here?

A lovely view of one of the Rose windows.

A slice of Notre Dame taken from the left bank, in a tiny little park called Square Viviani.

And our finale, la pièce de résistance, a shot of a stained glass rose window taken from the inside.  This pales in comparison to standing right in front of it, in awe, but hopefully you can still appreciate its beauty.

Have you been to Notre Dame?  What did you think?  Which picture was your favorite?

Just a friendly reminder...today is the first day to enter the La Cucina Italian cooking contest.  Head over to Blog from Italy to get the details and submit your entry!!  Can't wait to taste test some of your mouthwatering recipes!!

L'as du Fallafel

Located in the Jewish section in the Marais, this is the spot to go in Paris if you are looking for a falafel.

These are no ordinary falafel.  They are giant, delicious , authentic, perfectly prepared falafel, with all the trimmings and fresh ingredients.  And a bargain at 4.50 Euro that you can most certainly make a filling meal-and-a-half  out of.

But you must  be patient.  Very patient.

There will most definitely be a very long line at the outside pick-up counter, which I highly recommend ordering from.  You will not only get yours wrapped to go, which is perfect for eating while walking around the Marais area, but you'll get to watch them make your falafel.

Well, sort of. 

First, they fish the lightly fried falafel balls from the fryer and put them in a wrap.  Then like a flash of lightening, your wrap gets passed between several people crammed into the small counter area adding a spoonful of this, a handful of that and a big scoop of  tahini and then a magician wraps it in foil and sticks it out the window. 

These falafel makers are so good and so fast, it leaves you speechless. 

Seriously.  You are left standing there with your mouth gaping open not knowing how you wound up with a falafel in your hand.  You just wish you would have paid closer attention so you could have some idea of what just transpired.

And if the mile long line outside doesn't convince you that it is the absolute best place in Paris for falafel, then how about a little testimonial.

My friend Susan, who lives in Israel, corrected me once on a travel forum when I bragged that L'as was the best falafel I ever had.  Anywhere.  She quickly corrected me, explaining that falafel is the national food of Israel and she seriously doubted that this L'as du Fallafel could possibly compare to their falafel.

A year later, she visited Paris, and of course had to sample L'as for herself.  Soon after, I heard from her and don't ya know that she agreed!

And apparently, Lenny Kravitz a fan too?!

So, next time your in Paris and you want a cheap, filling, meal on the go, stop by L'as. 

And keep your eyes open as you near the counter.  You don't want to blink and miss all the action!

L'as du Fallafel
34 rue des Rosiers
Paris, 75004 

Love Thursday : The Things We Do For Love

**Note, this was originally posted in August 2007, but I thought it would make a great edition to Love Thursday**

Before I left for my first trip to Paris, solo, I asked Chris if there was anything special he wanted me to bring back for him.  I was expecting a beret, a bottle of wine, cheese, or something chees-y like an Eiffel Tower t-shirt.  But non, he surprised me.  He wanted some pictures. And not just any pictures.

There is a famous picture by Brassai, called ' The Stairs'.  It is a truly lovely black and white photo and one of Chris's favorites.  So, his souvenir was for me to find and recreate this picture.  Uh, ok, no problem.  I didn't know a tiny souvenir would turn into a project.

 ~The things we do for love~

So, I sat at the computer and let my fingers do the walking.  After tons of web surfing...at last I found that the photo was taken in Montmartre.  Hmmm, ok, so I need to look for a large staircase in Montmartre.  Shouldn't be too hard.  Well, since Montmartre is on a hill, called the butte, there are stairs all over.  Back to the computer.  More research, more websites.  Finally, I narrow down my options, go to Google Maps and discover...' The Stairs ' is actually a staircase that runs alongside the funicular that takes you to Sacre Coeur.  The staircase is actually named...Rue Foyatier. Viola!

When in Paris, armed with the address and approximate location, I head to Sacre Coeur in Montmartre.  Mind you, this is several days into my trip and my tootsies have never done so much walking, hurt so bad, or seen so many ugly looking blisters...but off I go to find and climb a staircase.

  ~The things we do for love~

When I arrive at Sacre Coeur, I head to the left and there I see the funicular, which is like a giant tram that takes you from street level, to Sacre Coeur at the top of the hill. 

To the left of this, I see some stairs.  I move closer, and sure enough...the street sign says, Rue Foyatier!

At last...I am so excited!  Until I see how looooong the staircase is.  It seems to disappear in the clouds. And that motorized tram is looking mighty fine to my feet, that are on fire now.  But...I promised.

 ~ The things we do for love~

So I trudge up the stairs, turning back to look down at every landing to take a picture.  Part of the problem is that I don't know the exact angle or how far up or down the stairs the picture was taken from.  So, I just keep snapping, and snapping...from the left, from the right to get the best shot. 

The Brassai picture, has no people in the shot, which presents a problem.  It is really busy when I went.  Just when I have the best shot lined up, people are walking up or down.  It was very frustrating for me.  Needless to say..I took at least 50 shots, some with people, some without.  In total, I spent about 1 hour at ' The Stairs'.

  ~The things we do for love~

When I arrived home, we went through the photos.  Chris loved all the shots and chose the one he liked the best.  We blew it up to an 11 x 17 black and white and we can look at it often.  Though it will never be as good as the original Brassai, especially since the conditions were not the same, it does serve as a wonderful reminder of my first trip to Paris, a sign of accomplishment, and above all it represents..the things we do for love.

Happy Love Thursday everyone!!

Photos:  Around Rue Foyatier, Paris

Travel Tip Tuesday- Free Paris Museums

With the price of airfare getting such that one has to take out a loan, now, more than ever, it is important to try and find other ways to save money, without sacrificing the experience in our intended destination.

Paris is one of those places that you can find plenty of things to do for free, even visiting great museums.

I have compiled a list of five free museums in Paris.

5. Maison de Victor Hugo.  Located on the southwest corner of the picturesque Place des Vosges, this beautifully decorated home, an homage to Hugo, is a story of his life told by pictures, drawings, books and mementos collected by the writer himself.  The sumptuous interior includes furnishings he initially picked out for his mistress Juliette Drouet.  The Chinoiserie room really stands out. 

4.  Musée Galliera.  How fitting that the fashion capital of the world would have a museum dedicated to fashion?  A bit further out, in the 16th arrondissement,the museum, which has been open since 1977, is home to over 70,000 items from great couturiers and designers and covers three centuries of fashion.  Divas and Fashionistas, you don't want to miss this one!

3.  Musée de la Vie Romantique.  This little country town house is nestled in a little park on the edge of Montmartre.  A collection of souvenirs and artwork mingle in the home of the eccentric writer George Sand and painter Ary Scheffer.  The space is designed to highlight these romantic talents while getting a true feel for their daily lives.  What makes it extra special is the cobblestone walkway, the gardens and the little cafe, which used to be the greenhouse, but now serves tea and cakes.

2.  Musée Cognacq-Jay.  The owners of the now defunct La Samaritiane department store were gracious enough to donate their collection accumulated from around the world to the City of Paris.  Some of the most valuable pieces from the 18th century including paintings, sculptures, jewels and ceramics are on offer.  Take your time here, there are lots of hidden treasures. Don't miss the royal bed à la Polonaise located on the third floor! 

1.  Musée Carnavalet.  Spend some time wandering the courtyard of the beautifully designed grounds while drooling over the outside of the grand building which used to be a Renaissance palace that houses the collection.  Whether you are a tried and true history buff, or you tend to get a little bored, you will love this museum. 

Don't forget that some of the more famous museums like the Louvre, also offer discounted admission after 4pm. The national museums even have free days, usually the first Sunday of every month.  You can check here for a list.

Make sure you visit Cherrye's today for tips on how to reduce jet lag!

Bon Voyage!!

We have progress...

Finally.  Progress.  Garden Progress.

Another little peak at the porch.  Mon petit jardin.

Slowly, but surely we are plugging along.

I found an old rusted wrought iron plant stand at local junk shop, which is a perfect home for my Boston Fern.  We are still sans Frenchbistro table and chairs, as well as a shabby cream chandelier that I imagine hanging from the porch ceiling.

But, we now have shutters!  This is to block the view from the other side of the porch, which belongs to our neighbors. 

Let's just say their side leaves something to be desired. 

Chris worked hard this weekend hinging both shutters together.  Now he just needs to add decorative cast iron feet, so that the wind doesn't blow them over.

I think I may try to find a little old distressed french sign to hang from the shutters. Maybe some ivy dripping down the front in a hanging wall pocket.

What do you think?  Do you see possibilities?  Please share.

A Sunday Apéritif

The French call it apéritif, the Italians call it aperitivo.  Whatever it's called, I'm a huge fan and I 'm always on board!

Derived from the Latin verb, apirire, it literally means to *open the palate*.  It refers to the hour or two before dinner, where you can enjoy a small nosh or nibble of finger food, with alcohol, prior to the big meal. 

On occassion, depending what is on offer, apéritif can replace the large meal. Like in the heat of summer, when just the thought of cooking a big meal in my postage-stamp size kitchen, makes beads of sweat appear upon my forehead.

No thanks!

Today happened to be one of those days.  Plus, it's a lazy Sunday.  An apéritif was in order.

I am pretty familiar with the types of foods both cultures typically serve for apéritif, many of which are always on hand a casa. 

Part of the fun is having an imagination about what you would like to serve and combining that with what you have on hand.  It's a perfetto time to use leftovers, or items that you only have a few morsels of.

A common French drink, especially in the South of France, for apéritif, is Pastis.  An herbal anise drink which is usually diluted with water in a tall glass.  It is different from Absinthe, but closely related.

Italians will drink campari, prosecco or maybe even a bellini.   In recent years, wine has become an acceptable alternative to the classic campari and soda.

Today our apéritif consisted of:

* almonds

* olive

* vine ripened tomotoes dressed in olive oil, sea salt, pepper and fresh torn basil

* marinated cippolini onions

* toasted Italian bread, drizzled with olive oil and fresh rosemary from our garden

* Italian sweet summer sausage

* fresh local cheese- one cow's milk, one goat's milk

* a honeycomb

And to wash it all down, a chilled, crisp Sicilian vino bianco. 

Now, the one thing I didn't have on hand that is always on my table for apéritif, are sweet baby gherkins.  Cornichons are very much a French classic, but I prefer sweet to sour.

Other popular alternatives for noshing are pistachios, potato chips, grilled veggies like eggplant or zucchini, marinated favorites like mushrooms and artichokes, prosciutto and melone and whatever fruit is in season, such as figs, cherries or strawberries. 

I have admittedly read way too many memoirs containing story upon story of apéritif in the French Countryside and aperitivo in its Italian counterpart.  Each tale filled with deliciously prepared food of the season, friends and family gathered around the old wooden communal table dressed in white linen and placed under the afternoon shade of the nearest olive or fruit tree, sharing stories, clinking glasses of continuously topped-off wine until dinner arrives and it's all repeated well into the wee hours of the night.

Oh, what I would not give to be a part of that.

But today, myself and my vivid imagination were joined by Chris and Madison as we sat on the covered front porch, surrounded by fresh herbs, flowering plants, garden statuary and antique urns, and we enjoyed our Sunday apéritif. 

As I was daydreaming of taking an apéritif with friends in France, the clouds moved overhead and rain began to fall, gently, from the sky. 

Without missing a beat, Chris and I looked at one another as he said, "Now it really feels like Paris."

I guess I am not the only one with an imagination!

What are your favorite things to eat for apéritif/aperitivo?  What about to drink?  What stories do you have to share?

Sunset on the Seine

Sunset on the river Seine, Paris shot in the Square du Vert-Galant at the tip of the Ile de la Cité

The Pont des Arts, in the foreground, is the only wooden pedestrian footbridge on the Seine.

I love the bird and the dark silhouettes on the bridge.

La Crémerie

Tucked into a tiny space in the Odeon area on the Left Bank of Paris, is a great little wine bar that I visited on my last trip, called La Crémerie.  You may be wondering why a wine bar would be called The Dairy? Well, the building in which the wine bar is housed, used to be a dairy.

When you first walk in, you see a few tiny tables, walls lined with wines, with a focus on organic varietals, and a bar with a few stools lined up. 

 

A fire engine red vintage meat slicer takes center stage at the bar as well as hams, salami and sausages from France, Spain and Italy, dangling from the original hand painted ceiling.  Even though we did not order any meat, we still got to see big red in action!

We arrived right before the afternoon lunch crowd, and the owner informed us that most of his tables were reserved, so we had a seat at the bar.  Because of Paris rules and regulations, you must have a little bite to eat with your wine, which is always just fine with me! 

We ordered wine by the glass.  I sampled an organic red.  I was forewarned of the earthiness and the sediment, but I loved it. 

The menu is handwritten in French on a small blackboard, but the owner helped us along with translations.  After what seemed like forever to decide, we agreed upon a plate of marinated vegetables dressed with olive oil and herbs.

And you can't possibly be drinking wine and not sample some cheese.  Though I don't remember the name, it resembled a Brie.

The tiny cave filled up while we were dining.  It became a loud, bustling, convivial, well...wine bar.  Since he is also open to the public selling the wines that line the walls, people drifted in and out making wine purchases, perhaps to go with their own lunch in the Luxembourg Gardens, which are not to far.

Whether you are in the area and need a bottle of wine or you are hungry and want a nosh, this wine bar should definitely be on your short list!

La Crémerie

9 rue des Quatres Vents
75006, Paris
Metro: Odeon

Open Tues-Sat, 10:30am-10:00pm.
Lunch 12:30 - 3:00 pm
Dinner 4:30 - 10:00pm