My Melange

A Sunday Apéritif

The French call it apéritif, the Italians call it aperitivo.  Whatever it's called, I'm a huge fan and I 'm always on board!

Derived from the Latin verb, apirire, it literally means to *open the palate*.  It refers to the hour or two before dinner, where you can enjoy a small nosh or nibble of finger food, with alcohol, prior to the big meal. 

On occassion, depending what is on offer, apéritif can replace the large meal. Like in the heat of summer, when just the thought of cooking a big meal in my postage-stamp size kitchen, makes beads of sweat appear upon my forehead.

No thanks!

Today happened to be one of those days.  Plus, it's a lazy Sunday.  An apéritif was in order.

I am pretty familiar with the types of foods both cultures typically serve for apéritif, many of which are always on hand a casa. 

Part of the fun is having an imagination about what you would like to serve and combining that with what you have on hand.  It's a perfetto time to use leftovers, or items that you only have a few morsels of.

A common French drink, especially in the South of France, for apéritif, is Pastis.  An herbal anise drink which is usually diluted with water in a tall glass.  It is different from Absinthe, but closely related.

Italians will drink campari, prosecco or maybe even a bellini.   In recent years, wine has become an acceptable alternative to the classic campari and soda.

Today our apéritif consisted of:

* almonds

* olive

* vine ripened tomotoes dressed in olive oil, sea salt, pepper and fresh torn basil

* marinated cippolini onions

* toasted Italian bread, drizzled with olive oil and fresh rosemary from our garden

* Italian sweet summer sausage

* fresh local cheese- one cow's milk, one goat's milk

* a honeycomb

And to wash it all down, a chilled, crisp Sicilian vino bianco. 

Now, the one thing I didn't have on hand that is always on my table for apéritif, are sweet baby gherkins.  Cornichons are very much a French classic, but I prefer sweet to sour.

Other popular alternatives for noshing are pistachios, potato chips, grilled veggies like eggplant or zucchini, marinated favorites like mushrooms and artichokes, prosciutto and melone and whatever fruit is in season, such as figs, cherries or strawberries. 

I have admittedly read way too many memoirs containing story upon story of apéritif in the French Countryside and aperitivo in its Italian counterpart.  Each tale filled with deliciously prepared food of the season, friends and family gathered around the old wooden communal table dressed in white linen and placed under the afternoon shade of the nearest olive or fruit tree, sharing stories, clinking glasses of continuously topped-off wine until dinner arrives and it's all repeated well into the wee hours of the night.

Oh, what I would not give to be a part of that.

But today, myself and my vivid imagination were joined by Chris and Madison as we sat on the covered front porch, surrounded by fresh herbs, flowering plants, garden statuary and antique urns, and we enjoyed our Sunday apéritif. 

As I was daydreaming of taking an apéritif with friends in France, the clouds moved overhead and rain began to fall, gently, from the sky. 

Without missing a beat, Chris and I looked at one another as he said, "Now it really feels like Paris."

I guess I am not the only one with an imagination!

What are your favorite things to eat for apéritif/aperitivo?  What about to drink?  What stories do you have to share?

Sunset on the Seine

Sunset on the river Seine, Paris shot in the Square du Vert-Galant at the tip of the Ile de la Cité

The Pont des Arts, in the foreground, is the only wooden pedestrian footbridge on the Seine.

I love the bird and the dark silhouettes on the bridge.

La Crémerie

Tucked into a tiny space in the Odeon area on the Left Bank of Paris, is a great little wine bar that I visited on my last trip, called La Crémerie.  You may be wondering why a wine bar would be called The Dairy? Well, the building in which the wine bar is housed, used to be a dairy.

When you first walk in, you see a few tiny tables, walls lined with wines, with a focus on organic varietals, and a bar with a few stools lined up. 

 

A fire engine red vintage meat slicer takes center stage at the bar as well as hams, salami and sausages from France, Spain and Italy, dangling from the original hand painted ceiling.  Even though we did not order any meat, we still got to see big red in action!

We arrived right before the afternoon lunch crowd, and the owner informed us that most of his tables were reserved, so we had a seat at the bar.  Because of Paris rules and regulations, you must have a little bite to eat with your wine, which is always just fine with me! 

We ordered wine by the glass.  I sampled an organic red.  I was forewarned of the earthiness and the sediment, but I loved it. 

The menu is handwritten in French on a small blackboard, but the owner helped us along with translations.  After what seemed like forever to decide, we agreed upon a plate of marinated vegetables dressed with olive oil and herbs.

And you can't possibly be drinking wine and not sample some cheese.  Though I don't remember the name, it resembled a Brie.

The tiny cave filled up while we were dining.  It became a loud, bustling, convivial, well...wine bar.  Since he is also open to the public selling the wines that line the walls, people drifted in and out making wine purchases, perhaps to go with their own lunch in the Luxembourg Gardens, which are not to far.

Whether you are in the area and need a bottle of wine or you are hungry and want a nosh, this wine bar should definitely be on your short list!

La Crémerie

9 rue des Quatres Vents
75006, Paris
Metro: Odeon

Open Tues-Sat, 10:30am-10:00pm.
Lunch 12:30 - 3:00 pm
Dinner 4:30 - 10:00pm

 

France Events-May 2008

Planning on visiting France this month?  Here is a short list I have compiled of France Events in May 2008.  Click on the links provided for more information.

South of France

Cannes Film Festival, Cannes, May 14th - 25th

La Fête des Mais, Nice, May 1st -31st

Formula One Grand Prix, Monaco, May 22- 25th

Paris

French Open, Paris, May 26 - June 8th

Saint Germain Jazz Festival, Paris, May 6th - May 23rd

The Great Paris Steeplechase, Paris, May 25th

Bastille Antiques Fair, Paris, May 8th - May 18th

International Photographic Flea Market, Paris, May 31 & June1

Other

Strawberry Festival, Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne, May 13th

Pélerinage des Marins, Honfluer, May 11 &12th

La Nuit des Musées, all of France, May 17th 7pm - 1pm

Do you know of any special events in France this month that I have left out?  Please feel free to leave a comment and let my readers know about it!!

Which one would interest you the most?

Taverne Henri IV

I was lucky enough to find this little wine bar, a stones throw from my hotel on my solo trip to Paris.  The Taverne Henri IV is nestled at the far end of the tranquil Place Dauphine, steps from the Pont Neuf. 

It was a perfect spot for me to grab just a little bite to eat and a glass of wine at odd hours.  I would bring my journal and write about my experiences while noshing on the homemade fare.

Sandwiches, quiche, cheese and charcuterie plates are all on offer, as is almost any kind of wine by the bottle or the glass imaginable.  Bistro fare,all at deliciously low prices.

My first visit, Phillipe the owner and manager served me a fruity Beaujolais and a quiche that looked more like a souffle.  Yeah, it was that big.

A few nights later, I happened to overhear a few Americans.  Somehow, we all introduced ourselves and before long, we were like fast friends that had known each other for years.  We drank and talked (and drank) until the wee hours of the morning.  Phillipe was gracious enough to keep the place open much longer than normal closing time.  He often joined in on our fun, though he did not know much English. He would gently quiet us when we were being too loud.  There were people that lived upstairs.

It was a night I will always remember.

On the morning I left Paris, I was faced with an unexpected 15 minutes before my taxi was to pick me up.  I immediately hopped over to Taverne Henri IV, for a last little nosh standing at the bar and to thank Phillipe for his wonderful food, delicious wine and for making a lone American girl with a journal feel welcome in a strange communal French wine bar.

Upon returning to Paris last year, even thought I was staying the Marais, I knew I had to return.

The food was better than I remembered and the place was very busy.  We stayed until it cleared out a bit.  As luck would have it Phillipe was conversing with a couple from Brazil that spoke French and very good English.

Again, somehow we got brought into the conversation.  We drank and talked about everything from their travels to their lovely Brazil (and the men talked soccer).  Before we left, we had exchanged email addresses with the lovely couple.

The whole time Phillipe and his wife had been waiting on us.  I was dying to find out if he remembered me.  Even though it had been 2 years, I was willing to try and find out.

I know enough French to get me by, but not enough to explain who I was to Phillipe.  But his lovely wife seemed to know English pretty well.

I called her over.  I explained.

"Two years ago, I came all week with a journal, one night, stayed late, bunch of noisy Americans, he kept the place open....Did he remember?"

She translated for Phillipe.  As the French words danced out of her mouth and into his ear, he looked at me and I could see the look of recognition come over his face along with a warm smile.

He remembered. How nice.

I left that night with a warm fuzzy feeling inside.

So, next time you are in Paris, stop by for a bite, a glass of wine or just to make some new friends.

What about you?  How does a place become one of your favorite haunts?  Have you ever made friends in a similar way, when you least expected it?    

Taverne Henri IV
13 place du Pont-Neuf
Paris, France
01 13 31 43 54 27 90

French Arch-itecture

 



Click on each picture to open a larger one.

As promised, I have compiled another collection of some of my favorite arches in Paris.  I have my favorites, but really I am interested in what you think.  Which ones are your favorites? 

And now that you have both collections, the real choice is between the Italian Collection and the French Collection.  Which are you more drawn to?  Which do you think I am more drawn to?  What differences in design can you pick out?

Hidden Kitchen Paris

Looking for something a little different in Paris?  Something...well, underground?  Can you keep a secret?  Well, have I got the perfect thing for you!  Next time you are planning a trip to Paris, consider something unconventional, consider the Hidden Kitchen Paris. 

Unbeknownst to me, there is quite a network of underground restaurants or supper clubs in some countries.   But this is a first in France.  And a first for me.  These restaurants are not known to the general public, there is no sign over the door advertising it's location.  They are usually set up in private homes with a limited number of people in attendance.  You have to be invited.  You have to be in the know.  And you have to be able to keep a secret.  Intrigued?  Yeah, so was I.

When I first read about the Hidden Kitchen, I thought it was cool, exciting, hip. Dare I say, it felt exclusive? A young American chef and his girlfriend, move from Seattle to Paris, buy an apartment, renovate it and start an underground restaurant serving 10 courses of American cuisine, with a different beverage at each course, for 6o€ per person, including wine.  I was totally sold!!

A few nay-sayers tried to quash my excitement. 

"Well, if it is not an official restaurant, maybe the food will make you sick.", "Why would you go to Paris and eat American food?" , "Oh, you might be taking a chance." Bla, Bla, Bla..

But it fell on deaf ears.  I was hooked and frantically typed my email to inquire about reservations for a Sunday in September, when we would be in Paris.  I crossed my fingers, prayed to the foodie Gods and as luck would have it, they had room.  We were in!

The dinners are given each weekend and the menu changes often, based on season and what the chef thinks is fresh at the local market.  Twelve diners sit around a communal rectangular table in their apartment.  Eight of those guests have reserved on-line in advance through their website and the other four seats are held and given out in person at the last minute.  Makes for a fun mix.

After you book your reservation, you wait for the email which comes the day before your dinner, which contains the address and directions to their apartment, which is conveniently located right in the heart of Paris and is easily accessible by Metro. 

The apartment is just lovely.  I spun around and around realizing that I was in a real Paris Apartment.  Braden cooks and preps all 1o dishes in their postage stamp sized kitchen.  This is a feat in and of itself.  Laura, his girlfriend helps prep and serve.  And she makes the final course of petits fours.  Their adorable Boston Terrier,  cries  from the kitchen, because he really, really wants to play.  The dining room is graced with a spice jar chandelier and french doors which open to a little balcony and a great view of Paris. 

Braden comes out before each course to give a little witty repartee about each dish.  Kinda like an Iron Chef explanation in which the guests are the judges.  Well, I guess in a way, we are.

I thought about giving you a play by play account of each dish and each drink, but I decided I would much rather add to the mystery and keep a few things to the imagination.  Besides, you can see sample menus on their website.

I will say this about our experience.  It was great fun!  We met some fabulous people that night.  I was not the only blogger in attendance, which isn't surprising considering much of their popularity has come from bloggers that have dined there and later wrote about their experience. We met a couple from Ireland, a few natives of France and others visiting from Georgia, South Carolina and Seattle.  I am a very sociable person, so it worked very well for me.  Other foodies may be put off if they don't like the idea of dining elbow to elbow with strangers.    But then again, I can't think of a more perfect reason or occasion to jump in and get your feet wet....and get over it!

One note:  they don't make substitutions for dietary restrictions or vegetarians, unless of course you plan an agreed upon menu and fill the table with 12 of your own crew.  But as reservations get harder and harder to come by, you might be hard pressed.   On our night, Chris was unable to eat about four of the courses because of the meat in them(he was able to eat two others that had fish), but at one point they were very gracious and brought him a fabulous cheese plate, so that he had something to nosh on while the carnivores went to town.

Truth be told, I was torn.  I hesitated about sharing this with you.  After all, part of the charm is the unknown, the secrecy, the mystery (though they have gotten so much press lately, that they are hardly a secret anymore).  But at the same time, word of mouth is truly what keeps these underground restaurants afloat.  Braden and Lauren are such lovely, talented people and I so admire their throw-caution-to-the-wind spirit with what they are doing here, that I could hardly hold back knowing that I may be able to help them in some small way.  So share I must!

So, if you will be traveling to Paris, alone or with friends, and you are looking for something a little different, enjoy meeting new people and want to experience contemporary, creative American cuisine with the freshest ingredients Paris has to offer, than hurry and make your reservations.  Braden and Laura will welcome you with open arms and ensure you will have a night to remember.

Oh yeah, don't forget.    Shhhh....mums the word.   

Plume Plume

While strolling around the Marais, I was drawn to the facade of this building.  It was once a  Patisserie, back in the day.  But it is now the home of a lovely romantic boutique called Plume Plume.  En Français, it means feather feather.  Don't you just adore that name for a boutique? Oh, the images that should conjure up.  Mais oui, I had to go in!

I have a thing for displays.  I have a degree in Fashion Merchandising, so I spent a year or ten doing visual display.  This window was calling me...

Around the corner, I peered into this one..

Still not convinced we should go in?  I promise, the best is yet to come! 

I love these little vignettes that are scattered about the boutique.  As you can see, it is an accessories boutique.  Bijoux, handbags, scarves, hats, gloves and shoes are on offer, with a romantic, vintage feel to them.  This isn't Mango.

Pink and Black.  Two of my favorite color combos and oh so very French. Magenta, hot pink, raspberry, fuchsia...I love them all.  Even the boutique name, Plume Plume is scribed with a delicate flourish of hot pink on the outside windows.

Sometimes, I prefer to just drool over the decor, rather than what is for sale.  I couldn't resist both the gold mirror and the console table.  Très chic!

And speaking of decor.  I looked up to find this beautiful painted fresco covering the ceiling.  I couldn't help staring at it.  I was mesmerized.  The colors were so crisp and clear.  I just adore that robin egg blue that exudes French-ness.

And the piéce de rèsistance.  A lovely French, Louis the something or other, settee.  With a distressed white finish and gilt gold embellishments.  A perfect spot to rest your tootsies while you sip your glass of bubbly waiting patiently for your friends to finish shopping.  Wouldn't it just look lovely in your parlor? 

Next time you are window shopping in Paris, stop by Plume Plume.  It is a romantic feast for the eyes.

Plume Plume
rue des Francs Bourgeois
75004 Paris
01 42 72 30 17

Metro: St. Paul 

Summoning the Green Fairy

Wandering around the Marais in Paris, not far from our hotel and tucked into a tiny corner off the Place du Marche St. Catherine, we saw this store front for Vert d'Absinthe.  With my extensive knowledge of the French language, I gathered this boutique sold Absinthe.  Now, being that Absinthe is not legal to buy in the US, it made me all the more intrigued and dare I say, curious, to wander in and check it out.  I must admit, I felt a little naughty.

This boutique is a homage to everything Absinthe.  Books, vintage posters, glasses, fountains and all the other paraphernalia and accessories that goes along with it are sold here.  He is the Absinthe expert.  No question. Here are a few of his offerings.

Here is a short synopsis about Absinthe on a leaflet provided by the proprietor with our purchase:

" Absinthe was originally created by a Swiss woman in 1750 as a cure for stomach ailments. In 1797 the medicine was purchased by Major Dubied and became an aperitif known as Extrait d'Absinthe à 68.  Major Dubied's daughter married someone named Henri-Louis Pernod.  Sound familiar?  By 1870, Absinthe became the favorite drink of the French.  It was know as La boisson nationale.  The national drink. It was enjoyed by artists, writers, actors..and rich people.  "

This seems perfectly logical to me because anise is known for settling the stomach and is often offered as an after dinner drink to aide digestion. You can read much more of the story here.

Over time, Absinthe got a bad rap and many have heard the stories about it causing hallucinations in some cases.  This was due to the fact that some tried to made inferior quality Absinthe, which contained combinations of  bad ingredients and chemicals, which led to sickness.

I can't imagine that I would ever consume enough of the good or bad stuff for it to drive me to the point of hallucinations, but I still looked forward to finally having a few sips of the forbidden fruit.   

There is a special way to prepare Absinthe, also known as Summoning the Green Fairy.  The basic recipe:

• Pour a shot in the bottom of a glass.  It will be a lovely emerald green color
• Put the special slotted spoon over the top of the glass
• Put a sugar cube or two on top of the slots in the spoon
• Slowly drip cold water over the cube, a little at a time, until the sugar dissolves
• The cocktail turns a milky jade green color and is ready to sip slowly!

Here is an instructional video, showing how to properly make it, with the fountain.  I love the whole process. It's a ceremony.  A celebration.  It does seem so French to me.  So formal.  The French do have a grand way of doing almost everything.

Absinthe tastes like licorice.  But it has an stronger herby, anise flavor, much like Pernod, but much bolder.  I did enjoy it, but only in small doses.  I would enjoy it more sitting at an outdoor cafe in Paris, in the searing summer heat.

For more information, a virtual visit to the store, another video on preparation, a feast for the eyes and to hear the owner speak with a passion of Absinthe, I highly recommend a visit to his Vert d'Absinthe website.  The website...and his videos are in French, but it is definitely worth a the trip.

Vert d'Absinthe
11 rue d'Ormesson
Paris 75004
01 42 71 69 73

French Flowers

The French have that certain je ne sais quoi when it comes to flowers and floral arranging.  C'est vrai!!  Fleuriste shops are always stocked with blooms...

They love greenery and urns.  Ferns, moss, ivy, baby's tears and grasses.  I would love to just run my fingers through all of these in the window display...

Speaking of urns, check out this grand stone urn with the geraniums spilling over the side...

French roses compare to no other.  Such wonderful sorbet colors and creative displays just spill right onto the sidewalk...

You can always find every color of pink and red.  They smell as good as they look, and I am in love with the zinc buckets they are arranged in...

I imagine myself, sitting at this cafe, enjoying my cafe au lait and croissant, wrapped in these trailing roses.  I would have a hard time deciding if I was more attracted to the smell of the roses, or the smell of my coffee!

I hope these Parisian posies brighten your day and bring a smile to your face in the midst of this dreary winter.  One can only pray for Spring.